It is a longer than expected ascent via an earthy, unprotected, zigzag road to the top of the mountain. I’m happily (nervously) in the backseat. Our driver — a real pro and a local — handles the road almost flawlessly. The slope, the gravel surface,…

I always imagined returning to Heihu (黑虎) again. The location is rightly memorable in terms of geography, and as a local cultural showcase. Out of numerous stunning locations in Maoxian (茂县), it was a noteworthy experience for me when I first visited — there are…

If one passes through the center of Wenchuan County (汶川县) today, most likely they will observe an assortment of modern infrastructure and investment. It’s material, obvious, and determined to be inviting. While not particularly expansive, it is rather developed, and there are enticing glimpses of…

At the edge of this elevated village is the very beginning of a bending, makeshift path. At times just barely carved onto the face of the mountain, it is empty, rather unexplained, and highly alluring. Just the ground, dirt, rock; no signs, no fences, no…

I adore city life, despite most of my writing being focused on the countryside and the mountains. It provides a thrilling, intimate examination of people and movement. I spent six years living in New York City, and while I hope to add more to it…

Central Maoxian: near where the Min and Heishui rivers meet, is the town called Shaba (沙坝). The visitor’s map shows little more than a location pin with the name of the town. I had heard no rumors and received no previews beforehand. Just a name.…

Chibusu (赤不苏) is about as far west as inhabited Maoxian goes. According to the visitor’s map, the western “limb” of Maoxian -think of it as loosely cross-shaped- is relatively large, but there is really only one town. Outside of Chibusu, which is a rather noteworthy…

Wadi (洼底) is another town that, at least according to a map and my short visit, is something of a midpoint destination. My guess would be most people taking this road are on the way to Chibusu (赤不苏), which is what I did, or passing…

It’s my second day in town on this particular visit. I’m on my way to meet with a local scholar for some informal research. We’re arranged to meet at a busy market just after lunchtime. I’m familiar with the other big marketplaces already, which cover…

Not unlike Fushun (富顺) and Tumen (土门), two side-by-side towns which encompass eastern Maoxian (茂县), Goukou (沟口) and Weimen (渭门) are adjoined towns that are difficult to delineate from each other. Likewise, they are not popular destinations. But many will pass them by. Visitors might…

Eastern Maoxian is traveled through often, in the passerby sense. The fast train station is located here, where many ride into and from Chengdu. Travelers typically arrive at the train station without spending much time in the immediate surroundings, before getting a ride to Fengyi…

Nanxin (南新) is the town spread out over the southern “tip” of Maoxian. It is the closest Maoxian town to Wenchuan (汶川), the neighboring county that was the epicenter of the 2008 earthquake. The Minjiang and Highway 213 (G213) run alongside each other through Nanxin,…

The Mínjiāng (or Min River, or 岷江) is the 457-mile force which flows throughout Sichuan, and thus Chengdu… and Maoxian: the land of the Qiang people (羌族). In the town of Fengyi, which I consider the hub of Maoxian, this river separates the town in…

It’s September 2024 and I am on a fast train from Chengdu (成都) heading into Maoxian (茂县). I’ve visited before, but never by train (it’s a new development). The train is markedly more comfortable, and steady, than the alternative: taking a car or bus through…

In college, I took an elective called, “Images of China”. A history and social studies class. The teacher and fellow students were good, pleasant. But I don’t recall much specific information that was taught. Maybe my frontal lobe was not quite there yet. I am…