There is a fast-emerging quarter of Fengyi that is on its way to becoming the designated cultural face of the Qiang ethnic group. Yes, I am once again writing about Fengyi. This sector, which spans from the western bank of the Min river across the low hills preceding greater mountains, very deliberately shines brightly. It’s got a lot to share: an exquisite temple complex, a well-funded museum, a great watchtower, performing arts, themed hotels and rentals, vivid sculptures, and even mystic detours. Most of it rather new, inviting, commercialized. Yet in between and surrounding all that, are swaths of modest neighborhoods, complete with aged orchards, terraces, 3-wheel farmer trucks. While they have absorbed some of the broader facelift effort, growth continues at its own pace. There is an unsurprisingly high degree of seasonality with visitors.

It’s a pleasant and clean area, which captures a moderate amount of Qiang surface characteristics. A healthy level of tourism breathes life in, despite large ongoing construction zones. I don’t love all of it. I think a more authentic imitation of the types of Qiang communities found outside of Fengyi might be a smart addition. I also find that the lighting at night is really excessive. Although high-energy performances and attractions are much more evocative at night. Overall, I think what has been built here is impressive and dynamic. For a tourist it offers plenty, for a scholar it is a strong starting point.

My documentation spans three occasions: January 2024, Sept-Oct 2024, and March 2025.

For reference and contrast: the opposing side of town, on the eastern bank of the river and typically a fun walk over [the river]. I really like how different it feels. Naturally I spent more time over there.