In college, I took an elective called, “Images of China”. A history and social studies class. The teacher and fellow students were good, pleasant. But I don’t recall much specific information that was taught. Maybe my frontal lobe was not quite there yet. I am able to recollect that China was depicted in a sort of poetic, painted way. A really striking landscape with rich history.

Minus the course’s overview of the political system (this was 2013 or 2014), this graceful description had actually not matched my own personal vision of China. At least, not for some time. Until recently, I mostly saw China through its developing cities and crude countryside. Places like Yunnan must be where those more spirited depictions are derived.

Because of a seasonable opportunity, I had the awesome privilege of tagging onto a “business trip” throughout Yunnan. 5 days, 4 cities. Extremely luckily for me, I got to run around and take pictures. Gratitude and appreciation. Yunnan is the primary province south of Sichuan, with its own bordering countries. To its south are Myanmar/Burma, Laos, and Vietnam. It’s a vast place of beauty, comfort, nature.

Although we covered expansive ground, there is more of Yunnan’s best out there. Nonetheless, what I got to see left impressions. Given only several days, there was plenty to absorb. Even the unknown or regular spots I crossed through offer their own qualities. In any event, Yunnan has much more than what I saw – mountains, rice terraces, the inspired Shangri-La city (well, proclaimed so in 2001).

If you know China, you know how Yunnan is regarded. Especially scenic. Captivating, cultured. The province boasts more than a few highly-visited-destination cities. I first remembered the name of this province when I saw it on Chinese TV, almost a year ago: so many views, so much culture! Mythical looking, while presenting, through its locals, the epitome of simple life. Its weather, also renowned, is generally comfortable and consistent.

So, I am already aware of the place I am visiting. But as with any place one passes through, there are reminders and observations that you make as you go. My personal challenge is to dedicate something – time, or effort, or understanding – to acknowledging subtleties. They can be revealing.

To be clear, I am not implying there is some kind of veneer in place, masking hidden reality. But Yunnan is only a province – it’s got probably the same problems all other provinces do. Down to its cities, towns, villages. It’s wonderful to cross through rural neighborhoods with their charming, romantic backdrops. But picturesque surroundings alone don’t make for easy, simple, or even fulfilling life.

I’m betting that actual life in these areas is a challenge most travelers have no interest in living (myself included). Retirement-age folks walk slowly on long roads, sharing the space with our vehicles which fly right past, while they carry huge, full baskets on their backs. They rinse their vegetables in a plastic bowl, not next to a waterfall with folk music playing in the background. People sit in exquisite shops hoping for a customer, surrounded by excellent, dazzling wares. The same wares travelers can find right down the street at an equally fetching shop. On a busy road in downtown Kunming, I see a man sleeping in the shade, right on the sidewalk I walk on. Next to him is a barrel with a bunch of things; it all looks like junk and rags to me.

And then there are those areas that are just… empty. Corridors and spaces that feel like there should be people moving through, but there are none. Sometimes it’s right next to a crowded spot. As if we must see the things that everyone else sees, but nothing different. Maybe that’s human nature, or a bit of Chinese nature perhaps.

I can’t avoid being a little enchanted by the vital presence and variety of landscapes. They are moving. Just don’t forget the bits of food for thought.

First stop: Kunming. Economic hub. Nice city parks, better beaches. Lots of downtown and urban “stuff”. Outside the city, great nature.

Second stop: Wenshan. A lesser-known city spread out across a landscape pulled out of a fairytale. Just a few hours south is Vietnam (curiously named, Yuènán, in Chinese). Some establishments here entertain three languages: Chinese, English, and Vietnamese. Unfortunately, compared with the genuine allure of the region, my photography effort here is a failure.

Third stop: Dali. The coastal city around a huge lake. Colloquially this lake is referred to as a sea. Navigating here was more difficult than I expected. Many neighborhoods.

Fourth stop: Lijiang. Ancient-town-city, no big lake. Heavenly mountains provide character instead, off in the distance. The ancient town dominates the city’s urban component. Like Dali, very lively.

Visiting here is easy. Living here would be very hard. Although surrounded by beautiful tiny mountains and glistening rice fields, countless villages seen on the way into places like Wenshan appear extremely poor. Homes look rough and very bunched together. What is the water quality like? How are the roads? Could some form of urban planning ever be feasible? Easy questions to ask. Keep thinking and perhaps things will magically improve.

Maybe next time, Shangri-La…